Pattern designer

Sweater

Knit top-down and seamless, in the construction of your choice: , round yoke, drop shoulder or set-in sleeves. You can try it on as you go.

Size

Body measurements (cm)

ChestUpper armWristYoke depthNeckline (finished)Underarm to hemUnderarm to wrist

Measure the body, not a garment — except the neckline: that's the finished sweater's neck opening, wider than the neck so the head fits through (46 to 62 cm). Yoke depth runs from the base of the neck to the underarm.

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Fit

: 10 cm more than the chest

Yarn and

Suggested taken from the yarn’s page: check it on your own swatch.

stitches / 10 cmrows / 10 cm

Measured on your swatch, after : the yoke is always in stockinette.

Neckline

The classic: a ribbed collar at the base of the neck.

Front drop (recommended): the neckline dips at the front like a store-bought sweater; the collar is picked up at the end.

No back raise needed: the front drop already makes the difference in height.

More settings

Construction, body length and shape, sleeves, stitch, placed motifs, drawing and borders. Everything already has a recommended value: the pattern is complete without changing them.

Construction

Increases follow four lines from the neck to the underarms: a crisp construction that's easy to try on as you go.

Body

Length

Shape

Same width from underarm to hem: simple and timeless.

Side slits

The lower body divides into pieces worked flat, each with its own edging; a few garter stitches edge each slit. With a longer back, its slit is longer by the same amount.

Bust

For a fuller bust: the front gets longer at the center; the sides and the back do not change. Measure from the shoulder to the hem over the bust point, then the same length on the back: the difference is the length to add (often 2 to 6 cm).

Sleeves

Length

Shape

Follows the arm and narrows to the edge: the classic.

Body stitchA stitch for each area

The stays in : its increases would break the motif. The stitch pattern starts below the underarms.

StripesTwo-color stripes, A and B

Stripes start under the collar, on the first round of the yoke, and run down without a break. Choose yarn B with the yarn, above. Borders can then be worked in striped rib.

Placed motifs

Choose a chart (cables, lace, bobbles… from the library or the editor) and place it on a piece. The stitches to add under cables are worked out, to keep the width.

Draw on the piece

For a free design, like in a photo: cabled stems, an X, wheat ears, scattered bobbles. The drawing is made for the chosen size; in other sizes it keeps its place from the center and from the top.

EdgesCollarStretchy, with a bolder texture.Hem and cuffsStretchy, with a bolder texture.

Collar (cm)Hem (cm)Cuffs (cm)

One step at a time, with a row counter; the screen stays on.

For a PDF, choose “Save as PDF” in the print window.

“All sizes” writes the pattern the way books do: “Cast on 100 (104, 112…) stitches”, with your size highlighted.

At a glance

Cast on

stitches · finished chest 105 cm

Yarn

≈ 1,050 m

Preview: the measured schematic, or the piece in 3D.

Finished garment, laid flat: each width is half the circumference.

The pattern

Materials

Yarn: Rowan · Lima Colour, about 1,050 m.
40 cm (collar) and 80 cm (yoke and body) circular needles, in your gauge size; or magic loop for the sleeves.
4 (one in a different color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the sleeves, a tapestry needle.

20 stitches × 26 rows = 10 cm in stockinette, after blocking.

Round neckline, worked flat

69 stitches. Row 1 (wrong side), purl, placing markers: 2 sts for the right front, marker, 15 sts for the right sleeve, marker, 35 sts for the back, marker, 15 sts for the left sleeve, marker, 2 sts for the left front. (Worked top down, the piece hangs upside down: wrong-side rows start with the right front, right-side rows with the left front.)

increases: the yoke schedule (below) starts on row 2, a right-side row; each row counts as one round.

At the same time, on the right-side rows listed below, increase at the neck edges: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. +2 sts. The increases get closer together as you go down: that's what rounds the neckline.

Increase at the neck edges every 4 rows twice, then every 2 rows 4 times (the first time on row 4): 6 times on each side.

After row 16, a right-side row (about 6.2 cm): 19 sts for the bottom of the neckline, at the center front, and join in the round without twisting. Knit to the marker between the left sleeve and the back: it is now the start of the round. This partial round does not count in the schedule: the next round starts at the marker.

Yoke

The schedule starts at row 2: the flat neckline rows are part of it.

While the neckline is worked flat (through row 16), increase row (right side): *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 4 times, knit to the end of the row. +8 sts (two on each side of each of the 4 markers).

Once joined in the round, increase round: k1, M1L, *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 3 times, knit to the last stitch of the round, M1R, k1. +8 sts (the beginning-of-round marker is one of the 4).

Body increase round: increase only on the body side of each marker (back and front). +4 sts.

Full increase round: 22 times, each followed by a plain round. 8 of them are already done flat (rows 2 to 16): 14 remain after the join.
Body increase round: 4 times, each followed by a plain round.
Body increase round: 4 times, every round.

You have 308 sts: 95 for the back, 95 for the front, 59 for each sleeve. The yoke measures 21.5 cm from the cast-on edge.

Dividing body and sleeves

Knit the back; place the 59 right-sleeve sts on waste yarn; 10 sts for the underarm; knit the front; place the left sleeve on hold; cast on 10 sts. You have 210 sts for the body. The round now ends under the left arm: place the beginning-of-round marker in the middle of these last cast-on stitches, at the side.

Body

Knit every stitch for 81 rounds, or 31.2 cm from the underarm.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: *k105, M1L* 2 times. You now have 212 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 13 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Sleeves (both alike)

Return the 59 held sts to the needles and pick up 10 sts from the underarm cast-on: 69 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker at the middle of the underarm.

Knit 7 rounds.

Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. −2 sts.

Work this decrease round every 6 rounds twice, then every 7 rounds 11 times: 13 times in all, the first on the 6th round after the plain rounds; then knit to 39.5 cm from the underarm. You have 43 sts.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: k43, M1L. You now have 44 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 13 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Collar

With the 40 cm circular needle, right side facing, starting between the back and the left sleeve, : 15 sts across the top of the left sleeve, 14 sts down the left side of the neckline, 19 sts in the center cast-on stitches, 14 sts up the right side, 15 sts across the top of the right sleeve and 35 sts across the back: 112 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the collar: *k7, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k8, k2tog* 4 times. You now have 100 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 7 rounds, i.e. 2.7 cm.

loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms. the sweater flat to the schematic measurements.

Pattern calculated by FARROW. Knit and wash a swatch in your yarn before you start: every measurement depends on it.

All sizes

Size	Chest	Cast on	Length	Yarn
XS	86 cm	64	56.2 cm	840 m
S	94 cm	66	58.1 cm	930 m
M	105 cm	69	60.4 cm	1,050 m
L	114 cm	72	62.3 cm	1,160 m
1X	124 cm	74	64.2 cm	1,270 m
2X	135 cm	77	66.2 cm	1,410 m
3X	145 cm	79	68.1 cm	1,540 m
4X	154 cm	82	70.4 cm	1,660 m
5X	165 cm	85	72.3 cm	1,810 m