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Sweater

Knit top-down and seamless, in the construction of your choice: , round yoke, drop shoulder or set-in sleeves. You can try it on as you go.

Size
Body measurements (cm)

Measure the body, not a garment — except the neckline: that's the finished sweater's neck opening, wider than the neck so the head fits through (46 to 62 cm). Yoke depth runs from the base of the neck to the underarm.

When signed in, you can keep these measurements for yourself, your family or your friends, and reuse them in every pattern. Sign in

Fit
Yarn and
Suggested taken from the yarn’s page: check it on your own swatch.

Measured on your swatch, after : the yoke is always in stockinette.

Neckline

The classic: a ribbed collar at the base of the neck.

No back raise needed: the front drop already makes the difference in height.

More settings

Construction, body length and shape, sleeves, stitch, placed motifs, drawing and borders. Everything already has a recommended value: the pattern is complete without changing them.

Construction

Increases follow four lines from the neck to the underarms: a crisp construction that's easy to try on as you go.

Body

Length

Shape

Same width from underarm to hem: simple and timeless.

The lower body divides into pieces worked flat, each with its own edging; a few garter stitches edge each slit. With a longer back, its slit is longer by the same amount.

For a fuller bust: the front gets longer at the center; the sides and the back do not change. Measure from the shoulder to the hem over the bust point, then the same length on the back: the difference is the length to add (often 2 to 6 cm).

Sleeves

Length

Shape

Follows the arm and narrows to the edge: the classic.

Body stitch

The stays in : its increases would break the motif. The stitch pattern starts below the underarms.

Stripes

Stripes start under the collar, on the first round of the yoke, and run down without a break. Choose yarn B with the yarn, above. Borders can then be worked in striped rib.

Placed motifs

Choose a chart (cables, lace, bobbles… from the library or the editor) and place it on a piece. The stitches to add under cables are worked out, to keep the width.

Draw on the piece

For a free design, like in a photo: cabled stems, an X, wheat ears, scattered bobbles. The drawing is made for the chosen size; in other sizes it keeps its place from the center and from the top.

Edges

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One step at a time, with a row counter; the screen stays on.
For a PDF, choose “Save as PDF” in the print window.

“All sizes” writes the pattern the way books do: “Cast on 100 (104, 112…) stitches”, with your size highlighted.

At a glance

Cast on

103

stitches · finished chest 104.7 cm

Yarn

≈ 1,530 m

Preview: the measured schematic, or the piece in 3D.

neck 25.3 cm50.7 cm arounddepth 6.3 cmcollar 2.6 cmyoke depth21.6 cmlength 60.2 cmchest 52.4 cm104.7 cm aroundedging 5 cmupper arm 17.5 cm35 cm aroundsleeve44.5 cmcuff 10.7 cm21.3 cm aroundedging5 cm
Finished garment, laid flat: each width is half the circumference.

The pattern

Materials

  • Yarn: Rowan · Fine Milk Cotton, about 1,530 m.
  • 40 cm (collar) and 80 cm (yoke and body) circular needles, in your gauge size; or magic loop for the sleeves.
  • 4 (one in a different color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the sleeves, a tapestry needle.

30 stitches × 38 rows = 10 cm in stockinette, after blocking.

Round neckline, worked flat

103 stitches. Row 1 (wrong side), purl, placing markers: 2 sts for the right front, marker, 23 sts for the right sleeve, marker, 53 sts for the back, marker, 23 sts for the left sleeve, marker, 2 sts for the left front. (Worked top down, the piece hangs upside down: wrong-side rows start with the right front, right-side rows with the left front.)

increases: the yoke schedule (below) starts on row 2, a right-side row; each row counts as one round.

At the same time, on the right-side rows listed below, increase at the neck edges: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. +2 sts. The increases get closer together as you go down: that's what rounds the neckline.

Increase at the neck edges every 4 rows twice, then every 2 rows 8 times (the first time on row 4): 10 times on each side.

After row 24, a right-side row (about 6.3 cm): 29 sts for the bottom of the neckline, at the center front, and join in the round without twisting. Knit to the marker between the left sleeve and the back: it is now the start of the round. This partial round does not count in the schedule: the next round starts at the marker.

Yoke

The schedule starts at row 2: the flat neckline rows are part of it.

While the neckline is worked flat (through row 24), increase row (right side): *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 4 times, knit to the end of the row. +8 sts (two on each side of each of the 4 markers).

Once joined in the round, increase round: k1, M1L, *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 3 times, knit to the last stitch of the round, M1R, k1. +8 sts (the beginning-of-round marker is one of the 4).

Body increase round: increase only on the body side of each marker (back and front). +4 sts.

  1. Full increase round: 34 times, each followed by a plain round. 12 of them are already done flat (rows 2 to 24): 22 remain after the join.
  2. Body increase round: 3 times, each followed by a plain round.
  3. Body increase round: 8 times, every round.

You have 468 sts: 143 for the back, 143 for the front, 91 for each sleeve. The yoke measures 21.6 cm from the cast-on edge.

Dividing body and sleeves

Knit the back; place the 91 right-sleeve sts on waste yarn; 14 sts for the underarm; knit the front; place the left sleeve on hold; cast on 14 sts. You have 314 sts for the body. The round now ends under the left arm: place the beginning-of-round marker in the middle of these last cast-on stitches, at the side.

Body

Knit every stitch for 118 rounds, or 31.1 cm from the underarm.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: *k157, M1L* 2 times. You now have 316 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 19 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Sleeves (both alike)

Return the 91 held sts to the needles and pick up 14 sts from the underarm cast-on: 105 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker at the middle of the underarm.

Knit 10 rounds.

Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. −2 sts.

Work this decrease round every 6 rounds 17 times, then every 7 rounds 4 times: 21 times in all, the first on the 6th round after the plain rounds; then knit to 39.5 cm from the underarm. You have 63 sts.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: k63, M1L. You now have 64 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 19 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Collar

With the 40 cm circular needle, right side facing, starting between the back and the left sleeve, : 23 sts across the top of the left sleeve, 20 sts down the left side of the neckline, 29 sts in the center cast-on stitches, 20 sts up the right side, 23 sts across the top of the right sleeve and 53 sts across the back: 168 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the collar: *k8, k2tog, k9, k2tog* 8 times. You now have 152 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 10 rounds, i.e. 2.6 cm.

loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms. the sweater flat to the schematic measurements.

Pattern calculated by FARROW. Knit and wash a swatch in your yarn before you start: every measurement depends on it.

All sizes

SizeChestCast onLengthYarn
XS86 cm9556 cm1,220 m
S94.7 cm9858.1 cm1,360 m
M104.7 cm10360.2 cm1,530 m
L114 cm10562.3 cm1,690 m
1X124.7 cm11163.9 cm1,850 m
2X134 cm11366 cm2,030 m
3X144 cm11868.1 cm2,230 m
4X154 cm12170.2 cm2,420 m
5X164 cm12672.3 cm2,620 m