Pattern designer

Sweater

Knit top-down and seamless, in the construction of your choice: , round yoke, drop shoulder or set-in sleeves. You can try it on as you go.

Size

Body measurements (cm)

ChestUpper armWristYoke depthNeckline (finished)Underarm to hemUnderarm to wrist

Measure the body, not a garment — except the neckline: that's the finished sweater's neck opening, wider than the neck so the head fits through (46 to 62 cm). Yoke depth runs from the base of the neck to the underarm.

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Fit

: 10 cm more than the chest

Yarn and

Suggested taken from the yarn’s page: check it on your own swatch.

stitches / 10 cmrows / 10 cm

Measured on your swatch, after : the yoke is always in stockinette.

Neckline

The classic: a ribbed collar at the base of the neck.

Front drop (recommended): the neckline dips at the front like a store-bought sweater; the collar is picked up at the end.

No back raise needed: the front drop already makes the difference in height.

More settings

Construction, body length and shape, sleeves, stitch, placed motifs, drawing and borders. Everything already has a recommended value: the pattern is complete without changing them.

Construction

Increases follow four lines from the neck to the underarms: a crisp construction that's easy to try on as you go.

Body

Length

Shape

Same width from underarm to hem: simple and timeless.

Side slits

The lower body divides into pieces worked flat, each with its own edging; a few garter stitches edge each slit. With a longer back, its slit is longer by the same amount.

Bust

For a fuller bust: the front gets longer at the center; the sides and the back do not change. Measure from the shoulder to the hem over the bust point, then the same length on the back: the difference is the length to add (often 2 to 6 cm).

Sleeves

Length

Shape

Follows the arm and narrows to the edge: the classic.

Body stitchA stitch for each area

The stays in : its increases would break the motif. The stitch pattern starts below the underarms.

StripesTwo-color stripes, A and B

Stripes start under the collar, on the first round of the yoke, and run down without a break. Choose yarn B with the yarn, above. Borders can then be worked in striped rib.

Placed motifs

Choose a chart (cables, lace, bobbles… from the library or the editor) and place it on a piece. The stitches to add under cables are worked out, to keep the width.

Draw on the piece

For a free design, like in a photo: cabled stems, an X, wheat ears, scattered bobbles. The drawing is made for the chosen size; in other sizes it keeps its place from the center and from the top.

EdgesCollarStretchy, with a bolder texture.Hem and cuffsStretchy, with a bolder texture.

Collar (cm)Hem (cm)Cuffs (cm)

One step at a time, with a row counter; the screen stays on.

For a PDF, choose “Save as PDF” in the print window.

“All sizes” writes the pattern the way books do: “Cast on 100 (104, 112…) stitches”, with your size highlighted.

At a glance

Cast on

stitches · finished chest 104.8 cm

Yarn

≈ 1,120 m

Preview: the measured schematic, or the piece in 3D.

Finished garment, laid flat: each width is half the circumference.

The pattern

Materials

Yarn: Lang Yarns · Venus, about 1,120 m.
40 cm (collar) and 80 cm (yoke and body) circular needles, in your gauge size; or magic loop for the sleeves.
4 (one in a different color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the sleeves, a tapestry needle.

21 stitches × 28 rows = 10 cm in stockinette, after blocking.

Round neckline, worked flat

72 stitches. Row 1 (wrong side), purl, placing markers: 2 sts for the right front, marker, 16 sts for the right sleeve, marker, 36 sts for the back, marker, 16 sts for the left sleeve, marker, 2 sts for the left front. (Worked top down, the piece hangs upside down: wrong-side rows start with the right front, right-side rows with the left front.)

increases: the yoke schedule (below) starts on row 2, a right-side row; each row counts as one round.

At the same time, on the right-side rows listed below, increase at the neck edges: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. +2 sts. The increases get closer together as you go down: that's what rounds the neckline.

Increase at the neck edges every 4 rows twice, then every 2 rows 5 times (the first time on row 4): 7 times on each side.

After row 18, a right-side row (about 6.4 cm): 18 sts for the bottom of the neckline, at the center front, and join in the round without twisting. Knit to the marker between the left sleeve and the back: it is now the start of the round. This partial round does not count in the schedule: the next round starts at the marker.

Yoke

The schedule starts at row 2: the flat neckline rows are part of it.

While the neckline is worked flat (through row 18), increase row (right side): *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 4 times, knit to the end of the row. +8 sts (two on each side of each of the 4 markers).

Once joined in the round, increase round: k1, M1L, *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 3 times, knit to the last stitch of the round, M1R, k1. +8 sts (the beginning-of-round marker is one of the 4).

Body increase round: increase only on the body side of each marker (back and front). +4 sts.

Full increase round: 23 times, each followed by a plain round. 9 of them are already done flat (rows 2 to 18): 14 remain after the join.
Body increase round: 5 times, each followed by a plain round.
Body increase round: 4 times, every round.

You have 324 sts: 100 for the back, 100 for the front, 62 for each sleeve. The yoke measures 21.4 cm from the cast-on edge.

Dividing body and sleeves

Knit the back; place the 62 right-sleeve sts on waste yarn; 10 sts for the underarm; knit the front; place the left sleeve on hold; cast on 10 sts. You have 220 sts for the body. The round now ends under the left arm: place the beginning-of-round marker in the middle of these last cast-on stitches, at the side.

Body

Knit every stitch for 87 rounds, or 31.1 cm from the underarm.

Work in (k2, p2) for 14 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Sleeves (both alike)

Return the 62 held sts to the needles and pick up 10 sts from the underarm cast-on: 72 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker at the middle of the underarm.

Knit 7 rounds.

Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. −2 sts.

Work this decrease round once, after 6 rounds, then every 7 rounds 13 times: 14 times in all, the first on the 6th round after the plain rounds; then knit to 39.5 cm from the underarm. You have 44 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 14 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Collar

With the 40 cm circular needle, right side facing, starting between the back and the left sleeve, : 16 sts across the top of the left sleeve, 16 sts down the left side of the neckline, 18 sts in the center cast-on stitches, 16 sts up the right side, 16 sts across the top of the right sleeve and 36 sts across the back: 118 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.

Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the collar: *k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k7, k2tog* 2 times, *k6, k2tog, k7, k2tog* 4 times. You now have 104 sts.

Work in (k2, p2) for 7 rounds, i.e. 2.5 cm.

loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms. the sweater flat to the schematic measurements.

Pattern calculated by FARROW. Knit and wash a swatch in your yarn before you start: every measurement depends on it.

All sizes

Size	Chest	Cast on	Length	Yarn
XS	85.7 cm	66	56.1 cm	900 m
S	94.3 cm	69	57.9 cm	1,010 m
M	104.8 cm	72	60 cm	1,120 m
L	114.3 cm	74	62.1 cm	1,240 m
1X	124.8 cm	77	63.9 cm	1,370 m
2X	134.3 cm	79	66.1 cm	1,500 m
3X	144.8 cm	82	67.9 cm	1,650 m
4X	155.2 cm	87	70 cm	1,780 m
5X	163.8 cm	90	72.1 cm	1,930 m