The pattern
Materials
- Yarn: about 1,210 m.
- 2 markers to frame the motif panels.
- 40 cm (collar) and 80 cm (yoke and body) circular needles, in your gauge size; or magic loop for the sleeves.
- 4 (one in a different color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the sleeves, a tapestry needle.
22 stitches × 30 rows = 10 cm in stockinette, after blocking.
Placed motifs
Read before you start: each motif says where it goes and when it begins. Stitch counts in the rest of the pattern don't include the stitches added under cables: add them while a panel is in progress.
Motif 1: Rosette
On the first round of the body, set up the panel. On the front (105 sts), starting at the right side (as worn): 44 background sts, marker, 16 sts (the panel), marker, 45 background sts.
The panel has 16 sts; the chart starts on this same round.
Work the chart once in the panel, once vertically (16 rounds). The rest of the piece continues in the background stitch.
The chart is drawn turned upside down: read it as usual, from bottom to top and right to left. Since the piece is worked from the top down, the motif will be right side up when worn.
Then continue in the background stitch.
Round neckline, worked flat
77 stitches. Row 1 (wrong side), purl, placing markers: 2 sts for the right front, marker, 17 sts for the right sleeve, marker, 39 sts for the back, marker, 17 sts for the left sleeve, marker, 2 sts for the left front. (Worked top down, the piece hangs upside down: wrong-side rows start with the right front, right-side rows with the left front.)
increases: the yoke schedule (below) starts on row 2, a right-side row; each row counts as one round.
At the same time, on the right-side rows listed below, increase at the neck edges: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. +2 sts. The increases get closer together as you go down: that's what rounds the neckline.
Increase at the neck edges every 4 rows twice, then every 2 rows 5 times (the first time on row 4): 7 times on each side.
After row 18, a right-side row (about 6 cm): 21 sts for the bottom of the neckline, at the center front, and join in the round without twisting. Knit to the marker between the left sleeve and the back: it is now the start of the round. This partial round does not count in the schedule: the next round starts at the marker.
Yoke
The schedule starts at row 2: the flat neckline rows are part of it.
While the neckline is worked flat (through row 18), work the increase row (right side) as follows: *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 4 times, knit to the end of the row. +8 sts (two on each side of each of the 4 markers).
Once joined in the round, work the increase round as follows: k1, M1L, *knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L* 3 times, knit to the last stitch of the round, M1R, k1. +8 sts (the beginning-of-round marker is one of the 4).
How to work a body increase round: increase only on the body side of each marker (back and front). +4 sts.
- Full increase round: 25 times, each followed by a plain round. 9 of them are already done flat (rows 2 to 18): 16 remain after the join. The first full round after the join is the plain round that follows row 18.
- Body increase round: 7 times, each followed by a plain round.
- Body increase round: 1 time, on the next round, without a plain round.
You have 344 sts: 105 for the back, 105 for the front, 67 for each sleeve. The yoke measures 21.7 cm from the cast-on edge.
Dividing body and sleeves
Knit the back; place the 67 right-sleeve sts on waste yarn; 10 sts for the underarm; knit the front; place the left sleeve on hold; cast on 10 sts. You have 230 sts for the body. The round now ends under the left arm: place the beginning-of-round marker in the middle of these last cast-on stitches, at the side.
Body
Knit every stitch for 93 rounds, or 31 cm from the underarm.
Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: *k115, M1L* 2 times. You now have 232 sts.
Work in (k2, p2) for 15 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.
loosely in rib.
Sleeves (both alike)
Return the 67 held sts to the needles and pick up 10 sts from the underarm cast-on: 77 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker at the middle of the underarm.
Knit 8 rounds.
How to work a decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. −2 sts.
Work this decrease round 15 times in all, counting rounds from the end of the plain rounds: every 6 rounds twice, then every 7 rounds 13 times; then knit to 39.5 cm from the underarm. You have 47 sts.
Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: k47, M1L. You now have 48 sts.
Work in (k2, p2) for 15 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.
loosely in rib.
Collar
With the 40 cm circular needle, right side facing, starting between the back and the left sleeve, : 17 sts across the top of the left sleeve, 16 sts down the left side of the neckline, 21 sts in the center cast-on stitches, 16 sts up the right side, 17 sts across the top of the right sleeve and 39 sts across the back: 126 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.
Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the collar: *k7, k2tog* 14 times. You now have 112 sts.
Work in (k2, p2) for 8 rounds, i.e. 2.7 cm.
loosely in rib.
Finishing
Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms. the sweater flat to the schematic measurements.
Pattern calculated by FARROW. Knit and wash a swatch in your yarn before you start: every measurement depends on it.