The pattern
Materials
- Yarn: about 760 m.
- 40 cm (collar) and 80 cm (body) circular needles, in your gauge size.
- 2 (one in a different color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the back, a tapestry needle.
22 stitches × 30 rows = 10 cm in stockinette, after blocking.
Back, flat from the shoulders
85 sts: 14 for each shoulder and 57 in the middle for the back neck.
Shoulder slope, in German : the neck sits a little higher than the shoulder points, like the body.
- Short row 1 (wrong side): purl to 3 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 2 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 3 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 3 (wrong side): make a double stitch, work to 7 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 4 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 7 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 5 (wrong side): make a double stitch, work to 10 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 6 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 10 sts from the end; turn.
- Row 1 (wrong side): make a double stitch, then work to the end of the row, working each double stitch as one stitch; row 2 (right side): work to the end of the row, working the remaining double stitches as one stitch. These two rows are rows 1 and 2: count the following rows from them.
Continue in stockinette, back and forth.
Armholes, on the right-side rows given: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. +2 sts.
Increase at the armholes every 4 rows twice, then every 2 rows 5 times, the first time on row 52: the armhole curves out. Continue through row 67 (22.3 cm), ending with a wrong-side row: 99 stitches. Leave on hold.
Front
Turn the back over, cast-on edge at the top. Right side facing, 14 sts in the cast-on stitches of each shoulder; the 57 sts in the middle stay free: this is the back neck. Work both shoulders at the same time, each with its own ball, starting with the same slope as the back.
Shoulder slope, in German : the neck sits a little higher than the shoulder points, like the body.
On the front, both shoulders are on the same needle: “the end” is the end of the row, at the armhole edge of the second shoulder. The short rows only affect the armhole edges; in the middle, each shoulder is worked to its neck edge with its own ball.
- Short row 1 (wrong side): purl to 3 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 2 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 3 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 3 (wrong side): make a double stitch, work to 7 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 4 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 7 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 5 (wrong side): make a double stitch, work to 10 sts from the end; turn.
- Short row 6 (right side): make a double stitch, work to 10 sts from the end; turn.
- Row 1 (wrong side): make a double stitch, then work to the end of the row, working each double stitch as one stitch; row 2 (right side): work to the end of the row, working the remaining double stitches as one stitch. These two rows are rows 1 and 2: count the following rows from them.
On the right-side rows given below, increase at the neck edge: at the end of the first shoulder, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1; at the start of the second, k1, M1L, knit to the end. +2 sts.
Increase at the neck edge once, after 4 rows, then every 2 rows 16 times (the first time on row 4): 17 times on each side.
After row 36, a right-side row: 23 sts at the center to join the two shoulders, and cut the second ball. Continue through row 67 like the back, working the armhole increases too: 99 sts.
Dividing body and sleeves
Knit the front; 10 sts for the underarm; knit the 99 back sts on hold; cast on 10 sts; join in the round: 218 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker in the middle of these last cast-on stitches.
Body
Knit every stitch for 84 rounds, or 28 cm from the underarm.
Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the edge: *k109, M1L* 2 times. You now have 220 sts.
Work in (k2, p2) for 15 rounds, i.e. 5 cm.
loosely in rib.
Armhole bands (both the same)
Right side facing, starting in the middle of the underarm cast-on stitches, 5 sts in these stitches, 86 sts all around the armhole (a little less than 3 sts for every 4 rows: the band stays flat), then the remaining 5 sts: 96 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.
Work in (k1, p1) for 6 rounds, i.e. 2 cm.
loosely in rib.
Collar
With the 40 cm circular needle, right side facing, 57 sts in the cast-on stitches of the back neck, 25 sts along each side of the front neck and 23 sts in the center cast-on stitches: 130 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.
Next round, adjusting the stitch count for the collar: *k65, M1L* 2 times. You now have 132 sts.
Work in (k2, p2) for 8 rounds, i.e. 2.7 cm.
loosely in rib.
Finishing
Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms. the sweater flat to the schematic measurements.
Pattern calculated by FARROW. Knit and wash a swatch in your yarn before you start: every measurement depends on it.