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Socks

Knit , cuff-down or toe-up. Three heels, two toes, four heights; a stitch pattern, placed motifs or a drawing on the leg and the top of the foot.

Direction

The classic way: cast on the cuff, work down the leg, turn the heel, and close the toe with grafting.

Height

From the top of the heel to the top of the cuff. Above a third of the way up, the sock widens for the calf: the extra stitches are calculated.

Heel

A flap worked flat, then the heel turn and a gusset on each side of the foot: the most fitted heel, good for a high instep.

Flap stitch

Toe

4 decreases per round, on both sides of the foot; closed with grafting.

Size
Foot and leg measurements (cm)

Standing. Foot circumference: at the base of the toes. Length: from the back of the heel to the tip of the big toe. Calf: at its widest. Heel → knee: from the back of the heel, where it meets the leg, to the back of the knee (for knee-highs).

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Ease

A sock is knit smaller than the foot (about −10%): it stays put without bunching.

Yarn and
Suggested taken from the yarn’s page: check it on your own swatch.

For hard-wearing socks, knit firmly: 28 to 36 stitches per 10 cm in sock yarn.

Cuff
Leg and instep pattern
Placed motifs

Choose a chart (cables, lace, bobbles… from the library or the editor) and place it on a piece. The stitches to add under cables are worked out, to keep the width.

Draw on the piece

For a free design, like in a photo: cabled stems, an X, wheat ears, scattered bobbles. The drawing is made for the chosen size; in other sizes it keeps its place from the center and from the top.

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One step at a time, with a row counter; the screen stays on.
For a PDF, choose “Save as PDF” in the print window.

“All sizes” writes the pattern the way books do: “Cast on 100 (104, 112…) stitches”, with your size highlighted.

At a glance

Cast on

60

stitches · cast on for the cuff

Foot circumference

56 stitches · 20 cm

Yarn

250 m

Preview: the measured schematic, or the piece in 3D.

16.9 cm23.5 cm20 cm around

The pattern

Materials

  • Yarn: Plassard · Anita, about 250 m.
  • (or a long circular for magic loop) in your gauge size.
  • 2 (one in a contrast color for the beginning of the round), a tapestry needle.

28 stitches × 32 rows = 10 cm in the body stitch, after blocking. Yardage is for a pair.

Order: cuff, leg, heel, foot, toe.

Cuff

Loosely 60 sts, divide them over the needles and join in the round without twisting. The beginning of the round is at the center back.

Work in (k2, p2) for 13 rounds, i.e. 4.1 cm.

Leg

Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the end of the round, k2tog, k1. −2 sts, at the center back.

Work this round once, after 10 rounds, then once, after 8 rounds, working the other rounds without decreasing: 56 sts.

Work 23 rounds without decreasing: the leg measures about 16.9 cm, cuff included.

Heel

Knit 14 more sts, then turn: the flap is worked back and forth over these 14 sts and the last 14 of the previous round, 28 sts in all. The 28 instep sts wait.

Row 1 (WS): slip 1 purlwise, purl to the end. Row 2 (RS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1* to the end.

Repeat these rows: 28 rows in all (about 8.8 cm), ending with a RS row.

Heel turn

Row 1 (WS): slip 1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): slip 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3: slip 1, purl to 1 st before the gap left on the previous row, p2tog (one st on each side of the gap), p1, turn.

Row 4: slip 1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked, ending with a RS row; on the last two rows, the decrease uses the last stitch at the edge: there is nothing to knit after it. Don't turn after the last row. 16 sts remain.

Gusset

and knit 15 sts along the edge of the flap: one in each slipped stitch, and one in the corner between the flap and the instep. Knit the 28 instep sts. Pick up 15 sts along the other edge (one in the corner, then one in each slipped stitch). Knit 8 heel sts: this is the new beginning of the round, at the middle of the sole. You have 74 sts.

Decrease round: knit to 3 sts before the instep, k2tog, k1; knit across the instep; k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. −2 sts.

Work this round every other round (one decrease round, then one plain round) 9 times: you are back to 56 sts.

Foot

Work in the round until the foot measures 18 cm from the back of the heel, about 28 rounds after the heel: the toe remains (about 5.3 cm). Try it on: the sock should reach the tip of the little toe.

Toe

Knit 14 sts: this is the new beginning of the round, at the side of the foot. Place a second marker after 28 sts: the instep and the sole have 28 sts each.

Decrease round: *k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1, slip the marker* twice. −4 sts.

Work this round every other round 7 times, then every round 3 times: 16 sts remain.

Cut the yarn, leaving 30 cm. Divide the stitches over two parallel needles (8 in front, 8 behind) and join them with (grafting).

Finishing

Knit the second sock the same way. Weave in the ends, closing the small holes at the corners of the heel, then the socks, flat or on sock blockers.

The numbers come from your swatch: knit it in the round, like the socks, and wash it before measuring.

All sizes

SizeFootFoot lengthLegCast onYarn (pair)
EU 36–37 (US 6–7)52 m · 18.6 cm22 cm16 cm56220 m
EU 38–39 (US 7½–8½)56 m · 20 cm23.5 cm16.9 cm60250 m
EU 40–41 (US 9–10)56 m · 20 cm25 cm17.9 cm68270 m