The pattern
Materials
- Yarn: about 610 m.
- A 60 to 80 cm (body and top edging), in your gauge size; two for the straps.
- 2 (one in a contrast color for the beginning of the round), waste yarn to hold the back, a tapestry needle.
24 stitches × 32 rows = 10 cm in the body stitch, after blocking.
Body, in the round
236 sts. Join in the round without twisting; place the beginning-of-round marker (right-hand side) and a second marker after 118 sts (left-hand side).
Work in (k1, p1) for 10 rounds, i.e. 3.1 cm.
Side decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. −4 sts.
Side increase round: k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L, knit to the last st, M1R, k1. +4 sts.
Work 6 rounds of stockinette.
Work the decrease round every 3 rounds 5 times, then every 2 rounds 8 times, the first time on round 9: you have 184 sts at the waist.
Work 10 rounds without shaping: this is the waist.
Work the increase round every 5 rounds 10 times, the first time on round 52: you have 224 sts at the bust.
Continue up to round 105 from the edging (about 32.8 cm), just below the arms: 224 sts.
Dividing
The first 112 sts of the round (up to the second marker) are the front; place the next 112 (the back) on waste yarn. The front, then the back, are worked flat.
Front
Row 1 (right side): 7 sts, knit to the end. Row 2 (wrong side): bind off 7 sts, purl to the end: 98 sts.
Armhole decrease row (right side): k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. −2 sts.
Armhole decrease row on the wrong side (in large sizes you also decrease on the wrong side): p1, p2tog, purl to the last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1. −2 sts.
Work this row once, after 2 rows, then every row 9 times (the first time on row 3): 78 sts.
Continue straight up to row 32 (about 10 cm above the underarm), ending with a wrong-side row. Bind off the 78 sts loosely on the right side.
Back
Return the 112 back sts to the needle, rejoining the yarn on the right side.
Row 1 (right side): 7 sts, knit to the end. Row 2 (wrong side): bind off 7 sts, purl to the end: 98 sts.
Armhole decrease row (right side): k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. −2 sts.
Armhole decrease row on the wrong side (in large sizes you also decrease on the wrong side): p1, p2tog, purl to the last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1. −2 sts.
Work this row once, after 2 rows, then every row 9 times (the first time on row 3): 78 sts.
Continue straight up to row 18 (about 5.6 cm above the underarm), ending with a wrong-side row. Bind off the 78 sts loosely on the right side.
Top edging
With the circular needle, right side facing, starting at a top corner of the back, 78 sts along the top of the back, 62 sts around the first armhole, 78 sts along the top of the front and 62 sts around the second armhole: 280 sts. Place the beginning-of-round marker.
Work in (k1, p1) for 5 rounds, i.e. 1.6 cm.
loosely in rib.
Straps (2)
With two double-pointed needles, cast on 3 sts and work an of 26 cm (about 83 rows). Bind off.
Sew one strap to each top corner of the front, on the inside of the edging, then the other end to the matching corner of the back. Try the camisole on before sewing the back, to adjust the length.
Finishing
Weave in the ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms as you go. the camisole flat to the schematic measurements.
The numbers come from your gauge swatch: measure it after washing and drying, like the finished camisole.