Glossary

Wetting or dampening the finished knitting, then letting it dry flat to the right measurements, pinned if needed. Stitches even out and lace opens up. Block your swatch too before measuring it.

See also: Gauge (swatch), Lace

The blueprint of a stitch pattern or motif, drawn square by square: each square is a stitch, each line a row, and a symbol tells you what to do. Read it from bottom to top. Quicker to follow than long text, especially for cables and colorwork.

See also: Stitch, Row, Repeat

The difference between the garment’s measurement and the body’s. About +5 cm at the chest gives a fitted sweater, +20 cm an oversized one; negative ease (smaller than the body) suits hats and ribbing.

See also: Gauge (swatch)

A small square knit before you start, to count how many stitches and rows make 10 cm with your yarn, needles and tension. Every calculation in a pattern depends on it: wrong gauge, wrong size. Measure it after blocking.

See also: Blocking, Ease

The basic stitch: insert the needle front to back and pull the yarn through. It makes a small V on the right side. On a chart, it is the empty square.

See also: Purl stitch, Stockinette

The reverse of the knit stitch: insert the needle back to front with the yarn in front. It makes a small horizontal bump. On a chart, it is the square with a dot.

See also: Knit stitch, Garter stitch, Ribbing

The block of stitches and rows that repeats to make the pattern. On a chart it is often outlined; you work it as many times as the width and height require.

See also: Stitch multiple, Chart

The side of the work that shows once the garment is worn. A chart always shows the knitting as seen from the right side.

See also: Wrong side (WS), Chart

The equivalent of a row when knitting in the round: you go all the way around the piece without ever turning the work.

See also: Knitting in the round, Row

One line of stitches worked from one end of the needle to the other, when knitting flat. On a chart, each line is a row; row 1 is at the bottom.

See also: Round, Knitting flat, Chart

The first and last stitch of a row, which form the edge of the work. They are often worked the same way every row for a neat edge and easier seaming.

See also: Stitch multiple

A loop of yarn, the basic unit of knitting. On a chart, each square stands for one stitch.

See also: Row, Chart

The number of stitches needed for the pattern to fit, for example “4 sts + 2”: a multiple of 4, plus 2 stitches to balance the edges. The calculator rounds your stitch count to the right multiple.

See also: Repeat, Selvedge

The hidden side of the work. When knitting flat, every other row is worked on the wrong side, doing the opposite of what the chart shows (a knit stitch becomes a purl). FARROW’s written instructions make this switch for you.

See also: Right side (RS), Knitting flat

A small raised ball knit into a single stitch: work 5 stitches into it (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1), work a few rows on those 5 stitches only, then close them back into one. Perfect for flowers, berries, clusters.

See also: Cable

Plush, thick ribs made of slipped stitches paired with a yarn over. Often in two colors, reversible.

See also: Slipped stitch, Yarn over (yo), Ribbing

Stitches that swap places to cross over each other, like a rope. Some are held aside (on a cable needle, in front or behind), the next ones are worked, then the held ones. “2/2 right cross”: 2 stitches go behind 2 others and the cable leans right. Cables are almost always crossed on the right side.

See also: Right side (RS)

Reducing the number of stitches, for example by knitting 2 together. Depending on how it is worked, the decrease leans right (k2tog) or left (ssk).

See also: Increase, Slip-slip-knit (ssk), Yarn over (yo)

Knit every stitch of every row when working flat. It makes ridges, looks the same on both sides and does not curl.

See also: Stockinette

Adding a stitch. A make-one (M1) picks up the strand between two stitches and is nearly invisible; a yarn over leaves a deliberate hole. The calculator spreads increases evenly.

See also: Decrease, Yarn over (yo)

Openwork knitting made of yarn overs (the holes) and decreases (to keep the stitch count). It only shows its beauty after blocking.

See also: Yarn over (yo), Decrease, Blocking

A tiny point along an edge. In a picot hem, a round of “k2tog, yo” makes a line of eyelets: when the hem is folded along that line, the edge becomes a row of little points.

See also: Yarn over (yo), Decrease

Alternating columns of knit and purl stitches (1×1, 2×2…). Very stretchy, they pull the fabric in: ideal for cuffs, hems and hats.

See also: Purl stitch, Ease

An edge of rounded waves. The “old shale” stitch makes them by grouping decreases and yarn-overs in the same round: the fabric gathers and fans out in turn, and the edge ripples.

See also: Lace, Yarn over (yo), Decrease

Knit one, purl one, shifted every row. A pebbly, flat, reversible texture.

See also: Ribbing

A decrease that leans left. The ssk removes one stitch; the centered double decrease removes two at once, keeping the middle stitch on top.

See also: Decrease

A stitch moved from one needle to the other without knitting it. It stretches over two rows; used for neat edges and mosaic patterns.

See also: Selvedge

The most common stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side. It makes smooth columns of Vs and curls at the edges.

See also: Knit stitch, Garter stitch

A stitch worked through the back loop: it twists and looks sharper and tighter. Common in ribbing and Bavarian patterns.

Simply wrap the yarn over the needle without working a stitch. On the next row it makes an extra stitch and a small hole: the basis of lace. Often paired with a decrease to keep the stitch count.

See also: Lace, Decrease

A small amount of yarn wound separately (on a card, a clip or simply as a butterfly) for one color area in intarsia. Each area has its own: two areas of the same color separated by a motif need two bobbins.

See also: Intarsia

Trapping the yarn running behind with the current stitch, to shorten a long float. Invisible on the right side when done well.

See also: Float

Embroidery that exactly covers a knitted stitch, tracing its V with a tapestry needle. Perfect for adding small color details afterwards (an eye, a star) without an extra bobbin.

See also: Intarsia, Bobbin

In colorwork, the yarn not in use runs behind the stitches: that is the float. Too long (more than 5 stitches), it catches fingers and puckers the fabric, so you catch it along the way.

See also: Catching a float, Stranded colorwork (Fair Isle)

A colorwork technique for large motifs: each area has its own ball (or bobbin), with no floats behind. Yarns are twisted at each color change to avoid holes. Worked flat.

See also: Stranded colorwork (Fair Isle), Knitting flat, Bobbin, Duplicate stitch

Color-patterned knitting where two yarns are carried along the row at once: you knit with one while the other runs behind. Traditionally never more than two colors per row. Mostly knit in the round.

See also: Float, Intarsia, Knitting in the round

The dye batch number, printed on the label. Two balls of the same colorway from different lots can differ slightly: for one garment, buy all balls from the same lot.

The length of yarn in a ball, for example 225 m per 100 g. To compare two yarns, look at meters per 100 g: the more there are, the finer the yarn.

See also: Yarn weight

How thick the yarn is, graded from 0 (lace, very fine) to 7 (jumbo, very thick) by the Craft Yarn Council: lace, fingering, sport, DK, worsted, bulky, super bulky, jumbo.

See also: Yardage

Knitting several strands at once as if they were one: two fine yarns make a thicker yarn, and two colors make a marled yarn. Each strand runs through the whole piece: a yarn held double needs twice its yardage. Gauge changes with the number of strands, so swatch with the exact combination.

See also: Gauge (swatch), Yarn weight, Yardage

The opening in the body where the sleeve is attached. Its depth runs from the top of the shoulder (or the base of the neck, for a raglan) to the underarm; its shape, straight or curved, defines the cut of the sweater.

See also: Cross-back, Raglan

Securing the stitches at the end so they do not unravel. Too tight a bind-off restricts the edge: try a larger needle.

See also: Cast on

Putting the first stitches on the needle to start knitting. How many depends on your gauge and the width you want: that is what the free tool on the home page calculates.

See also: Gauge (swatch), Bind off

The top of a sweater knit in one piece around the shoulders, with increases spread between bands: the ideal construction for colorwork, like Icelandic sweaters.

See also: Raglan, Stranded colorwork (Fair Isle)

The width of the back from one armhole to the other, across the top of the shoulder blades. It sets the shoulder width of a set-in-sleeve sweater: too wide and the shoulder droops, too narrow and it pulls.

See also: Armhole, Ease

The top of a hat. It is divided into equal sections (often 8) separated by markers, decreasing one stitch per section, first every other round, then every round: the decreases form a star.

See also: Decrease, Stitch marker

After turning, slip the first stitch with the yarn in front, then pull the yarn over the needle to the back: the stitch turns over and shows two legs on the needle. Later, knit those two legs together as one stitch: the gap at the turn disappears.

See also: Short rows

Joining two rows of live stitches with a tapestry needle, imitating a row of stockinette: the join is invisible and adds no bulk. Used to close the toe of a sock or the top of a mitten.

See also: Knit stitch, Stockinette

A small cord knitted over 3 stitches, always on the right side. Worked as you bind off (“applied i-cord”), it wraps the edge of a piece in a neat, round border, without ribbing.

See also: Bind off

Working back and forth, turning the work at the end of each row. Every other row is on the wrong side. It produces flat pieces that are seamed together afterwards.

See also: Knitting in the round, Wrong side (WS)

Knitting in a spiral on circular or double-pointed needles, always on the right side. No seams, and colorwork is much easier. On a chart, every round is read from right to left.

See also: Knitting flat, Circular needles, Double-pointed needles (DPNs)

A cast-on over two parallel needles (Judy Becker's, for example): the yarn wraps around both at once, giving two rows of stitches joined without a seam. It starts the toe of a toe-up sock.

See also: Cast on, Knitting in the round

Insert the needle into the edge of finished knitting, wrap the yarn and pull a loop through: a new stitch. Used to knit a band (V-neck, collar, button band) without sewing. Along a row edge, pick up about 3 stitches for every 4 rows.

See also: Selvedge, Ribbing

A sweater construction where the sleeves run diagonally up to the neck. Worked top-down, you increase regularly along four lines: no seams, and you can try it on as you go.

See also: Circular yoke, Increase

Turning the work before the end of the row to add height in one place only: sock heels, the back of a neckline, sloped shoulders.

A finish for 1×1 rib. To cast on, you make stitches alternating one knit and one purl (Italian cast-on), then work a few rows on every other stitch, slipping the others: the edge closes into a small rounded, stretchy tube with no visible cast-on line. To bind off, you do the reverse: a few setup rows, then you separate the knit and purl stitches onto two needles and graft them together.

See also: Ribbing, Cast on, Bind off, Grafting (Kitchener stitch)

Two needle tips joined by a flexible cable. For knitting in the round, and flat too (the weight rests in your lap). Interchangeable sets let you swap tips and cables.

See also: Knitting in the round, Double-pointed needles (DPNs)

Sets of 4 or 5 needles pointed at both ends, for knitting small circumferences in the round: socks, sleeves, hat crowns.

See also: Circular needles, Knitting in the round

A small ring slipped onto the needle between two stitches to mark a spot: the start of the round, a crown section, a raglan line. It is moved from needle to needle as you knit.

See also: Crown, Raglan